do it yourself remote launcher

PA_Sportsman · Post by **PA_Sportsman** » Mon Aug 23, 2004 2:43 pm

Here is a pic of a remote launcher I built out of Lion Country manual launcher and a pair of 2 way radios.

Here is a link to plans and wiring diagram.

http://www.birddoginfo.homestead.com/remotepage1.html

Enjoy!!

Post by **Ayres** » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:18 pm

That's friggin awesome! I've got over half of that stuff laying around the house because I worked at Radio Shack for a year. I never thought about using two-way radios as the trigger. I've got a set of cheapies with a half-mile range that I ended up getting for $4 after the sale. (You don't need the GMRS kind, only the FRS kind with a headphone out. IN fact, you need a license to use GMRS channels)

sudiegirl · Post by **sudiegirl** » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:36 pm

i agree..... this is supercool !!! we just have to get about 3 peices and we are there!! thanks!!!!!!!!!

seadog · Post by **seadog** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 2:19 am

Dog training is the mother of inventions.

PA_Sportsman · Post by **PA_Sportsman** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 9:28 am

Since this picture was taken I have changed the way the lever is triggered. I used some wire and threaded it through frame so that the actuator arm extends it eliminates the need for the wooden dowel. I'll take another photo and post it this evening.

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Mon Sep 06, 2004 9:11 pm

How about posting a parts list for the relay, actuator and the trigger? All I saw was pictures on the web link you posted.

Also, do you have instructions on building your own release? I saw the wooden one on the web link you posted,but again just pictures.

I would like to build a remote bird release like you have done for as cheap as possible. Very cool idea using the audio from the 2-ways.... :cheers:
Thanks in advance for any input.

Post by **Ayres** » Sun Sep 19, 2004 5:38 pm

In that weblink, once you view one of the other pages it gives you a new window and some of the links disappear. On the MAIN page (first page from the link he posted) there is a clicky-link at the top that shows a wiring diagram.

It's very basic, though, and I'm getting kind of confused looking at it. Anyway, I'm rounding up the spare parts from RadioShack today, and will hopefully order the other 'specialty' parts soon too (though I'm going to check Auto-Zone and Circuit City before ordering a $20 low-voltage trigger).

PA_Sportsman · Post by **PA_Sportsman** » Mon Sep 20, 2004 11:08 am

The parts link should be on that webpage. Sorry, I don't have any plans for homemade release. Let me know if you need any help.

Ayres, that diagram is a bit confusing. If you need any help, just let me know.

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 4:00 pm

I'd have to put together a parts list if anyone needs. Same idea as PAs, thanks for the information. I added an LED and a switch so I didn't have to mess with the battery leads all the time. I also created the launcher from scratch. I didn't want to add paint or anything to the launcher - did not want that paint scent to throw off the dog. Oh, I also used an old bow release I had for the release. This didn't cost me much at all to throw together.

Post by **Ayres** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 4:36 pm

dhondtm, where did you get that trigger? Perhaps it was less expensive than the PIE 1VT that I ended up using ( $18 )?

Edit: Ok, I found it online. The first price I found was $12, but I would note that it has a 1 second delay to fire, unlike the PIE trigger.

So, is that delay noticeable?

Post by **grant** » Mon Oct 11, 2004 5:51 pm

Great Job!

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:40 am

Ayres wrote:So, is that delay noticeable?

yeah it is. I found it on eBay so I went ahead and picked it up. Like the video's showed I just plan to keep her on the check cord and at a distance. But, yeah I noticed the delay, it's about a second but also the sound from the radio itself is slightly delayed too.

I guess my expectations were not *click* *release*
I have launched a few water bottles, but no birds yet. I just finished seeding my yard for the winter grass here. So I set up the bird trap I built to try and catch a few pigeons. Then I plan to do a few dry runs with out the dog present.

My wife thinks I am crazy, wonder what the neighbors will think.

Post by **Ayres** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 1:59 am

I just ordered a trap like that yesterday. Also, I tried out my launcher for real for the first time on Saturday.

First I let a couple quail go to get Justus birdy, and then tried planting the birds. Surprisingly, I had success planting the birds and keeping them "sleeping" until I brought Justus by. The final bird I used the launcher.

Justus was still birdy from the previous planted quail so I don't know that it fired right when he caught scent, but I did launch it when he was still about fifteen feet away. It fired quicker than I expected from my test launches.

That delay might just not be that noticeable when you're not scrutenizing every millisecond and launching a real bird in a training situation. Let us know if you really feel that delay when you finally get your dog around it. I'm hoping not so much, of course. It'd shave six bucks off the cost of a DIY remote launcher.

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Tue Oct 12, 2004 7:48 pm

I found some receipts...

Trigger I got on eBay for $9.98 and a couple bucks for s/h
Actuator I got on eBay as well $1.60 and a couple bucks for s/h
Toggle Switch at Fry's Electronics for $1.99
Battery Pack from Fry's Electronics for $1.29
LED w/ integral resistor, 12v compatible from Fry's for 0.99 cents
Springs from Home Depot for $2.72
12" pigeon bobs for the trap from Foy's Pigeon Supplies for $5.00

The rest of the parts I had laying around the string I used was from a shoe string and the screens are some old screening I had so I cut it up. Had some wood scraps laying around already. etc...

The only other two items I had to get was a couple steel bars for the release I can't find the receipt for. Also, the circuit box was from Fry's but can't find that receipt either. But, as you can see it was all really cheap in cost.

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 7:35 pm

My first real launch with a live wild bird broke the launcher. :roll:
I think I put to strong of a spring on mine. The launch was successful, but both springs came off the launcher and one of them broke. Now, I got to find the time to get to the hardware store and fine some springs with a little less strength.

dhondtm · Post by **dhondtm** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 1:10 am

ok, I had to go and add a relay to my bird launcher after all. :roll:
I put new springs with less strength and gave it another try and I struggled to get the bird launcher to launch. I had to walk Cassi off and try again when she wasn't around, it finally went off after the third attempt.

It turns out because of the angle the wire takes from the actuator arm is a sharp turn to the trigger it has a bit too much tension. Even the I am triggering it, it doesn't seem to pull the actuator arm back neough to get the release to work. By adding the relay it triggers and stays triggered enough to pull the trigger.

So, I stand corrected when I previously stated you don't necessarily need a relay. By adding a relay my bird release is much more relyable.

PA_Sportsman · Post by **PA_Sportsman** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 12:12 pm

glad it's working better for you!

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:49 pm

I need some help trouble shooting my homemade release. I made the one with the two way radios and low voltage trigger with the relay and am using a 9.6 volt battery pack.

I used this last with no troubles but when I went to use it this year??

The actuator is good, I jumped the power and it triggers. When I use the radio it seems to send the power when I put the volt meter on it but it doesn't work. I can hear the relay trip but it doesn't seem to work?

I sodered all the connections so anyone? Help?

Post by **Ayres** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:21 pm

Check your battery pack. It may need charged or replaced.

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:43 pm

I have 8+ volts going to the actuator but it is not tripping it? when I take a wire and jump from the battery pack to the actuator it trips.
The battery works on my other release that I made.

SwitchGrassWPG · Post by **SwitchGrassWPG** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 5:08 am

If you are only getting 8 volts, check your wiring connections. You may have some corrosion building up in one.

Post by **Ayres** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:54 am

Keep in mind that the actuators are 12 volt operated. When I built my launcher, I had to use the relay to get enough "steam" to pull the string hard enough to trip the launcher.

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:12 pm

Ayres,

I just finished my launchers up this last weekend and had to have the relay as well. They work great!

Springer,

One thing I had a hard time with was the jack from the headphones. I got them a bit too hot when I was saudering(sp) them and it resulted in the plastic liner melting. This didnt always let me have a good connection. After some trial and error I got it figured out. My launchers were doing the same as yours. You might try that connection again. Just an idea.

Good luck

Coveyrise64 · Post by **Coveyrise64** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:48 pm

The first launcher I assembled I tried eliminating the relay as a cost saving measure. Didn't work very well. What I found out was there is a pretty good voltage drop across the low voltage trigger, this voltage drop reduced the applied voltage to the actuator. Had to go back and add the relay. The purpose of the relay is to (on pickup) bypass the trigger circuit and apply momentary full battery voltage to the actuator (or what ever level your battery is charged to). As Ayers noted, the actuator is a 12volt device and the relay is a 9volt device. If your battery is low on charge you could still be operating the relay but (because of the additional voltage drop across the trigger circuit) be applying less voltage that what is required to operate the actuator. I would try charging the battery before making any more changes to the circuit. One other thing about the battery, you could have a bad cell. It will charge normally but won’t stay charged as long and the voltage output could be reduced when a load is applied. Hope this helps.

Coveyrise64

Coveyrise64 · Post by **Coveyrise64** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 1:06 pm

Scott wrote:

One thing I had a hard time with was the jack from the headphones. I got them a bit too hot when I was saudering(sp) them and it resulted in the plastic liner melting. This didnt always let me have a good connection. After some trial and error I got it figured out. My launchers were doing the same as yours. You might try that connection again. Just an idea.

Typical problem when soldering to connectors incased in plastic. I found that by using Radio Shack part# 4202420, 1/8" to 1/8" shielded audio cable I can cut it in half and have connectors for two radios. Since it is a mono cable it will probably only work with the radios that have seperate mic and speaker ouputs (I used Midland radios). Again, hope this helps.

Coveyrise64

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:24 pm

I have two unit that I built at the same time, one I put on a launcher and the other has sat in the closet. I did try the battery on my spare and it triggers that one.

I think my problem might be the sodering on the relay because when I look at the wire connections one is a little loose but doesn't pull off. I will try and resoder that one and see if that takes care of my problem. If not I will go to Radio shack and buy a new relay and try that. They are cheap enough to experiment with.

Thanks guys. It may be a while before I get to this as we are buying a new house this Fri. so I will be busy moving and putting a bath in the basement.

Post by **Ayres** » Wed Jul 12, 2006 12:18 am

Springer wrote:Thanks guys. It may be a while before I get to this as we are buying a new house this Fri. so I will be busy moving and putting a bath in the basement.

I feel your pain

(moving our last full load outta here on Friday afternoon, moving in this weekend, selling/closing on our house on the 19th, taking the bar exam on the 25/26th.)

jjb · Post by **jjb** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:25 pm

I am also having trouble with getting the actuator arm to trip, but think it is the actuator itself. I have 10+ volts going to the actuator, but it is not tripping. It stopped working after the plug on my radio came out part of the way and sent a constant signal to the actuator. I think the motor may have burned up. I am going to get a new actuator today and try it tonight.

Coveyrise64 · Post by **Coveyrise64** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 4:04 pm

Make sure you have the polarity right on the acctuator. Otherwise it will try to "pull in" instead of extending out like the launcher set-up requires.

Coveyrise64

jjb · Post by **jjb** » Fri Jul 21, 2006 7:50 am

The polarity is right. I switched out actuators last night and it works great now. I wonder if my first actuator was bad all along.

Addict · Post by **Addict** » Sat Jul 22, 2006 1:07 pm

Can you find most of the parts you need at radio shack? I would like some remote launchers. I'm tired of pulling a string, you don't get the same timing.

Addict

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:43 am

Hey Addict,

I finally got mine going like 2 weeks ago. They work great! I had a hard time getting the low voltage trigger devise. I finally found them at a local car stereo shop. They were something like $20 a piece. Then I got the actuator arms the same place that the article shows. I got all of the rest of the parts at radio shack. Make sure you plan on getting the relay it makes a huge difference. I would suggest building them to anyone.

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 10:37 am

I will look around and find where someone listed all the parts and where they got them all.
One of the other forums listed the web sites where they bought all the stuff.

I know I ordered the LVT and the actuators from Parts Express.

Here is another link, go to the home page here and it gives you all the sites that have found to be the cheapest.

http://birddoginfo.homestead.com/remotepage1.html

Here is another thing that some might be interested. Lots of reading here and it is related.

http://refugeforums.com/refuge/showthre ... ade+winger

Schmaltzie · Post by **Schmaltzie** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:05 am

[quote]Typical problem when soldering to connectors incased in plastic. I found that by using Radio Shack part# 4202420, 1/8" to 1/8" shielded audio cable I can cut it in half and have connectors for two radios. Since it is a mono cable it will probably only work with the radios that have seperate mic and speaker ouputs (I used Midland radios). Again, hope this helps.

My radio only has one plug. Do I need a stereo cable or would the mono cable work?

Coveyrise64 · Post by **Coveyrise64** » Wed Jul 26, 2006 4:24 pm

Stereo, but be advised there are two different sizes. Well, maybe four if you count the metrics. There are 1/8" and 3/32" or 2.5mm and 3.5mm if I'm not mistaken. If you have a headphone set with yours, try to match the size and number of sections to the male end. Sometimes this is the hardest part in finishing the remote.

Coveyrise64

Post by **Ayres** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 9:38 pm

Springer wrote:I will look around and find where someone listed all the parts and where they got them all.
One of the other forums listed the web sites where they bought all the stuff.

I know I ordered the LVT and the actuators from Parts Express.

Here is another link, go to the home page here and it gives you all the sites that have found to be the cheapest.

http://birddoginfo.homestead.com/remotepage1.html

Here is another thing that some might be interested. Lots of reading here and it is related.

http://refugeforums.com/refuge/showthre ... ade+winger

If you just download the .pdf article that I wrote (with step-by-step pictures) and flip to the last page, it should list where I got everything.

I had to make these as cost effective as possible to swing it by my wife, so rest assured that those places garnered the lowest prices at the time (and probably still do).

http://www.gundogforum.com/resources/Re ... rPlans.pdf

nitrex · Post by **nitrex** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:04 pm

This is a great thread. How much are you saving by building your own remote launchers? I know that most of the store bought remote launchers run several hundred dollars each - ouch!

Nitrex

Post by **Ayres** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:20 pm

The more you make, the cheaper they become per launcher. This is due to shipping costs, and the cost of the radios. For instance, one set of radios gives you a remote and a launcher. The next set gives you two more launchers. So, the rule of 3 or 5 or whatever you have lying around is what works best.

Schmaltzie · Post by **Schmaltzie** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:02 pm

I must be electronically challenged. i cannot get this to work. When I connect the wires for the radio it transmits to the other one....

Springer · Post by **Springer** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:44 pm

Where are you located in MN at? I could maybe help if you are close.

What do you mean by it goes off when you connect the radio's?

One thing you want to do is turn on the radios before plugging in the headphone jack and even plugging in the battery.

jjb · Post by **jjb** » Fri Aug 18, 2006 2:46 pm

What type of radios are you using and do they have the VOX feature? VOX stands for voice operated transmitter and is most likely the root of your problem. I have Motorola radios that did the same thing. I am able to turn it off by attaching the radio to the launcher, turning it on, and then pressing the talk button once. I then connect the battery.

Danro · Post by **Danro** » Sat Aug 19, 2006 3:04 pm

I bet you could use an old e collar the same as the radios. :idea: All the launcher really needs is an electroinc impulse to move the acuator arm right? It might take a little tinkering though. Just a thought.

Post by **Ayres** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 3:44 pm

Danro wrote:I bet you could use an old e collar the same as the radios. All the launcher really needs is an electroinc impulse to move the acuator arm right? It might take a little tinkering though. Just a thought.

That would work, yes. E-collars are generally a lot more expensive though.

Danro · Post by **Danro** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:01 pm

I was just saying because I recently bought a new one and I have my hold one still, a stupid little $50 innotek. Boy that was a waste of money. :D

fitchjr · Post by **fitchjr** » Thu May 03, 2007 7:55 pm

what connector do i need to use with my motorola radios with the vox jack? ive already ordered all the parts and i want to get it right the first time.

Danro · Post by **Danro** » Fri May 04, 2007 5:43 pm

Maybe we should rename this the never ending post.

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do it yourself remote launcher

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