VIDEO: The "Magic Brushpile"

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Thu Jul 02, 2015 11:09 pm

I recently posted a new video. Thought some here might find it interesting.

Here is the text that accompanies the video.

In order to help understand this "Magic Brushpile" video, please follow the link below. It will take you to the flowchart of the Higgins Method. http://higginsgundogs.com/about-us/our- ... flowchart/

The Higgins Method of gun dog training is unique. It's based on using a dog's free will to build trust and cooperation. In this video, you'll watch a young dog learn and begin to understand in one session, a new hunting strategy. Steady to flush, shot and fall.

https://youtu.be/8vDfeE1405c

Lots of ways to train gun dogs. This is what works for me.

Enjoy,

Brad Higgins
Higgins Gundogs

Higgins Gundogs hunting etiquette

Dogs: Stay in touch and handle well. Always honor another dog's point, be steady when necessary and manage the birds for the gun.
Handlers: Be silent in the hunt. Allow the dog the freedom to do his work. Nurture the natural retrieve.

Post by **Sharon** » Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:25 pm

Very interesting video. As a psychology graduate, I recognize some proven psychology principles there.

dobrostarr · Post by **dobrostarr** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 1:12 pm

Question: when you allow the dog a "redo," what do you do if he walks up and site points? Do you call him off or just let him give up on it or???

Big bloc · Post by **Big bloc** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 2:21 pm

How many hours a day you train? It seams like all 24

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:14 pm

Hello Dobrostarr,

If a dog decides he needs to try for the bird himself (like in the video), I let him go try. If he goes up to the MBP and points or tries to get to the bird, I leave him alone to see what he decides to do. If he keeps trying to get the bird, I just pick up the check cord and take him back to try it again. When I talk about a do over, that's when a dog goes to the MBP, sees that he can't get the bird himself, and on his own, comes back to the handler, stands and defers. Basically, he sees that he can't be successful by himself and decides to ask the handler for help.

Big Bloc,

This time of year I usually train two or three hours in the morning and again in the evening when it cools off. And yes, sometimes it seems like 24

Spy Car · Post by **Spy Car** » Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:36 pm

What is the typical routine once the dog is handed the bird as a reward?

Bill

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:23 am

Hello Bill,

Once the dog has the bird, I encourage him to "share the kill".

Here is a clip out of a video I'm working on. Sorry about the wind noise. When I get the full video done, I'll adjust the audio.

Here is the text that accompanies the video.

Here is a video showing one of the phases of our natural retrieve training. Because I don't use obedience in this, I need to work with the dog's instinctive responses. Instead of a "fetch", command, I need to encourage him to "share the kill". In the beginning, I do this by bringing him in, taking the bird but then petting him up and sharing it with him. I also encourage him to walk and carry the bird. Pretty soon he no longer sees me as the one that wants to steal his kill. Instead, he offers to share it with me.

https://youtu.be/9DyPpt1LAHs

When the full "Nurturing the Natural Retrieve" video is finished, I'll post it here.

Higgins

Spy Car · Post by **Spy Car** » Sun Jul 05, 2015 1:13 pm

Higgins wrote:Hello Bill,

Once the dog has the bird, I encourage him to "share the kill".

Here is a clip out of a video I'm working on. Sorry about the wind noise. When I get the full video done, I'll adjust the audio.

Here is the text that accompanies the video.

Here is a video showing one of the phases of our natural retrieve training. Because I don't use obedience in this, I need to work with the dog's instinctive responses. Instead of a "fetch", command, I need to encourage him to "share the kill". In the beginning, I do this by bringing him in, taking the bird but then petting him up and sharing it with him. I also encourage him to walk and carry the bird. Pretty soon he no longer sees me as the one that wants to steal his kill. Instead, he offers to share it with me.

https://youtu.be/9DyPpt1LAHs

When the full "Nurturing the Natural Retrieve" video is finished, I'll post it here.

Higgins

Higgins,

Love it. Outstanding. Boy do I share strong sympathies between the way I train and what I see you're doing. Look forward to seeing more of your videos.

All the best,

Bill

largefrag · Post by **largefrag** » Sat Jul 11, 2015 12:07 pm

great video. I am really interested in trying this technique. Quick questions, what do you do when the dog decides to break on the flush or after the "shot and kill." Do you stop the dog on the lead and make it steady itself up before you deliver the bird, do you take the dog away, does the gunner take the pigeon and and not give it to the dog, etc? My current pup fairly cooperative and smart as a tack and I'm sure shell figure this drill out pretty quickly but she is also bird crazy and prey driven and i am sure this will be an issue that will need to be addressed and I'm not sure that situation occurred or was addressed int eh video. Thanks

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:09 pm

Hello Largefrag,

I uploaded a short video for you. It shows a dog his first time on the Magic Brushpile.

Here is the text I included with the video.

This is a young dog on the Magic Brushpile for the first time. You can see he breaks to the flush/shot. All I do is slow him down and stop him with the checkcord so I can show him, and he can learn, how to get the bird. Then it's loose again. I will never reward a dog if the check cord is tight. He needs to stand on a loose cord to show me he has made a choice. Choosing to be steady always gets rewarded. He was steady 2 birds later.
https://youtu.be/6UKTyx1lWNo

Brad Higgins
http://www.HigginsGundogs.com
___________________________
Higgins Gundogs hunting etiquette

Dogs: Stay in touch and handle well. Always honor another dog's point, be steady when necessary and manage the birds for the gun.
Handlers: Be silent in the hunt. Allow the dog the freedom to do his work. Nurture the natural retrieve.

Grommet · Post by **Grommet** » Tue Jul 14, 2015 7:07 am

Brad,

I have watched your videos online and I like your methods but this video confused me. Why did you reward the dog when he broke and appeared to be on a tight cc? Or am I missing something?

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Tue Jul 14, 2015 12:02 pm

Hello Grommet,

My method requires owners and trainers to see things from a different perspective. Dogs are predators. They live in the moment, they are reactive and they focus on one thing at a time.

Remember, in my method, as in nature, the prey controls the predator. Get pushy and the prey leaves. The only punishment is the lack of success.

Back to answering your question. He was unsuccessful when he broke. The dog was rewarded (successful) for the last choice he made. Being steady. At that point he was no longer thinking about when he broke, he was in the moment, building successful associations. He's learning that steadiness, not breaking, leads to success.

Brad Higgins
http://www.HigginsGundogs.com

Higgins Gundogs hunting etiquette

Dogs: Stay in touch and handle well. Always honor another dog's point, be steady when necessary and manage the birds for the gun.
Handlers: Be silent in the hunt. Allow the dog the freedom to do his work. Nurture the natural retrieve.

Grommet · Post by **Grommet** » Tue Jul 14, 2015 2:34 pm

Thank you for your explanation makes perfect sense now.

RaiderZach · Post by **RaiderZach** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 7:38 am

Higgins wrote:Hello Bill,

Once the dog has the bird, I encourage him to "share the kill".

Higgins

So it's ok to give your dog a live bird as a reward as long as you as the handler are giving him the bird and not allowing him to run on it/pounce etc? Want to make sure if I do this I am doing it right.

Higgins · Post by **Higgins** » Thu Jul 16, 2015 9:00 am

Hello RaiderZach,

Remember, the Magic Brushpile training will not work unless you follow the flowchart of my method. The training must be based on free will, and trust. It is a whole new foundation to base your training on. To be effective, it can't be mixed with or included in obedience based training methods.

Yes, I share the kill with him. At this point, I don't want him running and getting the bird himself. I want him to build an association that he needs me to help him be successful. When we're back in the bird field, I will turn him loose and work him on good flying birds. He may chase a couple but he has learned that if he wants one in his mouth, he needs to work with me. It's an easy transition, he already has experience (the MBP training).

Here is an article I wrote on retrieving a while ago.
http://higginsgundogs.com/2014/retrieve ... -the-prey/

Hope you enjoy it.

Brad Higgins
http://www.HigginsGundogs.com

Higgins Gundogs hunting etiquette

Dogs: Stay in touch and handle well. Always honor another dog's point, be steady when necessary and manage the birds for the gun.
Handlers: Be silent in the hunt. Allow the dog the freedom to do his work. Nurture the natural retrieve.

Gun Dog Forum