Hickox method questions

[mountaindogs]

Watching the great beginning DVD (updated) and curious about a few things.

He states to "never use the launcher bird as the scent bird"
How would you set up a launcher situation with a different bird as the scent bird? Does that not risk having the point of the launcher diminished if the dog can possible catch a tethered or dizzied bird?

He uses the pigeon thrown as a reward for the dog allowing the handler to get in front. Is he using the whoa command or is there a scent bird on the ground that we can't see? What stops the dog at first?

Is there confusion for the dog if we use a launched or tossed bird as reward encouraging chase, and later when requiring no chase we use the launch when the move or break. It's almost as if the birds leaving becomes a consequence. Do dogs transfer this concept of seeing the bird = reward then bird flushing and seeing the bird = consequence. I know there is the retrieve factor here as you advance and the consequence is the bird can not be retrieved, but in the stage before that while still steadying... Anybody find the dogs confused by it?

There are a lot of drills allowing chasing early on. Does anyone feel this sets up encourages breaking or is it good for confidence? Opinions.

[Rik]

The first of three drills Hickox uses to steady a dog on point and to wing and shot is the 'Fly away drill". A lockwing pigeon is brushed through a two yard area around the planting site and then buried in the cover as the scent bird. A additional pigeon (the flyer) is placed in a launcher 10 yards up wind of the scent bird.

Bring the dog on a check cord with a flank wrap perpendicular to the sent cone. When the dog points, (which he will eventually) place slight pressure on the flank check cord and walk slowly around to the front of the dog. Slowly walk around in front of the dog kicking the brush just like you were trying fush the bird. When the dog becomes apprehensive or starts to break point, launch the flyer, drop the check cord and let the dog chase the bird.

The objective here is to have the dog associate your presence in front of him with his chance to chase birds. Repeat the fly away drill until the dog stays steady as long as you stand in front of him. He is now steady on point before he is taught ''whoa'.

When you move to the second drill,"Fly away drill with restraint" the dog will never be allowed to chase birds again.

I've used this method on three setters in the last 6 years and it worked well. Only issue I had was to be patient in repeating the fly away drills until the dog is solid. Usually took me three weeks of alternate days traing sessions.

Here is a video in which Hickox demonstrates the Fly Away Drill:

http://media.gundogsonline.com/GHFlyAwayDrill.mp4

[mountaindogs]

Thanks. That makes sense.

One more Q.
How do you handle it if the dog creeps or breaks in when you try to move in front? Do you launch the bird then or do you try to restrain the dog enough so you do get slightly in front?

[Rik]

I'm sorry I left out a step that's crucial. The first step is time consuming and can be expensive, but sets the stage for the fly away drill.

Dog needs to chase enough birds to learn that he can't catch them and begins to point for longer and longer before breaking and chasing. This gives us the window we need to get in front of the dog in the fly away drill.

George doesn't use the flank hitch or any check cord pressure ( light restraint). I use some very light restraint in the fly away to speed up the process because I can't afford to use all the birds George does in the pups early exposure to birds. I use pigeons because they always fly, but since I'm a city dweller I can't use homers. My method works but may involve substantial patience with the fly away drill. If you can use homers, this process works well and doesn't cost much.

This all sounds a bit vague and complex, but if you can 'read" your dog it's pretty easy. I've seen George, in one of his seminars, take an unknown dog from chasing birds in the morning to a nearly solid point by the end of the day. I wouldn't recommend you try this but the process does work with virtually no pressure on the dog.

Hope this helps. Remember no pressure on the pup when he's on birds and he'll always be an aggressive and stylish hunter.

[mountaindogs]

Thanks