Dog taking off

[t-setter]

I have an 18-month-old setter that I'm having trouble with when unleashing him to hunt. He responds well to whistle commands in the yard, but when I turn him loose in the woods, he takes off and keeps going. He's done this the last three times I've taken him in the woods, and I know the first time he was running deer (there was a fresh snow, and I could see his tracks following deer tracks). Last weekend, I tried to take him grouse hunting, but as soon I as unleashed him, he made a beeline away from me. Within 10 minutes he was 900 yards away in an area he had never seen before. After 45 minutes or so, and using the GPS to guide me, I was able to get within 150 yards of the dog, whistled for him, and he came right to me. After that, he stayed within a comfortable range (within 100 yards or so) until we got back to the truck an hour later. All of the setters I've had in the past would let off steam for 10 minutes or so before settling in and hunting within bell range, but I never had one that just took off like this one does. I run him with a shock collar and GPS, and I guess my question is, the next time I take him out, how far should I let him travel before trying to reel him in with the e-collar? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[grouseguy]

I have an 18-month-old setter that I'm having trouble with when unleashing him to hunt. He responds well to whistle commands in the yard, but when I turn him loose in the woods, he takes off and keeps going. He's done this the last three times I've taken him in the woods, and I know the first time he was running deer (there was a fresh snow, and I could see his tracks following deer tracks). Last weekend, I tried to take him grouse hunting, but as soon I as unleashed him, he made a beeline away from me. Within 10 minutes he was 900 yards away in an area he had never seen before. After 45 minutes or so, and using the GPS to guide me, I was able to get within 150 yards of the dog, whistled for him, and he came right to me. After that, he stayed within a comfortable range (within 100 yards or so) until we got back to the truck an hour later. All of the setters I've had in the past would let off steam for 10 minutes or so before settling in and hunting within bell range, but I never had one that just took off like this one does. I run him with a shock collar and GPS, and I guess my question is, the next time I take him out, how far should I let him travel before trying to reel him in with the e-collar? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I had the same issue when my female setter was young. What kennel is the pup from?

[slistoe]

and I guess my question is, the next time I take him out, how far should I let him travel before trying to reel him in with the e-collar? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

About 20 feet. Or whatever length your CC is.

But perhaps you might try a dozen other locations other than your yard before you turn him loose on a hunting trip again.

[gonehuntin']

It's obvious that his obedience is very weak. I de-bolt everyone of my dog's, and were I you, I'd do it to this one. That dog should come when called anytime, anyplace, anywhere when called.

[jcbuttry8]

You really need to work more on the obedience. If you have an e-collar on there is no reason that pup is not minding. He is doing it because he is cc wise. He knows that when you have the cc on he has to mind when off he can do what he wants. Next time you release him with the collar on when you give a command you hold the continuous nick until he turns. Release it once he turns to you. He will get the picture. It doesn't take long to realize he needs to mind. Start low and work up to the level it takes to get him to turn. Good luck and keep us posted.

Joe

[Wenaha]

You dog has learned hat he can run off without consequences. And it sounds like he is not hunting WITH you on these forays.

You need to get him into a zone that is comfortable for you and that he can maintain. If he has been trained to handle, then unload him, WHOA him, and (over) handle him until he is paying attention from the get go. If he has not been trained to handle stop hunting him until you have installed handling. Letting him run off re-inforces this behavior and he will blow you off whenever he feels like it.

Never just turn your dog out of his crate and let him take off. WHOA him and make him stand until you are ready, then release him and handle him when needed.

[bfred]

He is doing it because he is cc wise. He knows that when you have the cc on he has to mind when off he can do what he wants. Next time you release him with the collar on when you give a command you hold the continuous nick until he turns. Release it once he turns to you. He will get the picture. It doesn't take long to realize he needs to mind. Start low and work up to the level it takes to get him to turn. Good luck and keep us posted.

Joe

My new setter was the exact same way. Absolutely fine during yard work, but once out in the field
when I'd drop the check cord, BAM. Off he'd go, and no amount of yelling COME! would bring him back.

Continued with the yard work, as he became accustomed to wearing the e-collar. After a few weeks, got
him back down for more field work, same thing...until a nick with the collar. Couple nicks with that collar
is all it took for him to realize come, means come. Didn't take much of a nick either, just got his attention.
(I experiemented on myself, and followed the e-collar recommendations/training manual/GDF advice too.)
He's a year old tommorrow, heading out for our first real pheasant/quail hunt and the last thing on my mind
will be wether or not he'll come when called. *I'll report back... *

As to how far you should let him go? I'd say that's up to you. How far would you normally like him to be?
My last setter would open field range out as far as 50 yards, before she'd turn and gradually work back.
In the woods and thicker cover, I preferred her to range a little closer.
Getting them to be "in tune" with you will take time, and quite frankly, many hunts and working/play
time together. Always a work in progress, but IMO, that's the beauty of it.


Good luck.

[BillGraves]

I heard a little trick that you snap two leashes on him, one short one and the other a long cc. Since he typically runs off after the leash is unsnapped, only take off the short one and stand on the end of the cc. He'll soon hit the end and won't like the results if he bolts. Never done it, just heard it.

Bill

[DonF]

I would not say it was an obedience problem but a breeding problem. You pup was bred to go and find birds, that's what it's trying to do. Get yourself a bunch of birds and plant a field so he can hardly move without running into birds. His genes are saying to go find something and you aren't providing it. You start putting him on birds here and he won't run there till he's sure he's got these here. He is doing what he was bred to do, run and find birds!

[SCT]

+1 for what DonF said. I want my dogs to hit the field running. Get him into birds, fast.

[jcbuttry8]

While I agree with You DonF. There is still some obedience issues. That is why we all do yard work. Kona is bred to run county to county, and when released that is what she does. If she is 300 yards out and I hit the come in whistle she turns tail and comes. The OP is looking for a closer running dog. Yeah he might have a dog that is bred to run but he doesn't have control. He needs to perform more work on his dog following his command. Without an ecollar he can not get the control expected at 100 or 1000 yards. The point is whether big or small in the run, if you give a command, you better be able to control the situation. JMO

Joe

[4dabirds]

Maybe the dog is just running deer. Don has a good point though since dogs are place oriented maybe this place is a place to run deer instead of find birds. I would plant some birds in the place you are hunting to guarantee some success and also adress the deer problem.

[birddogger]

You dog has learned hat he can run off without consequences. And it sounds like he is not hunting WITH you on these forays.

You need to get him into a zone that is comfortable for you and that he can maintain. If he has been trained to handle, then unload him, WHOA him, and (over) handle him until he is paying attention from the get go. If he has not been trained to handle stop hunting him until you have installed handling. Letting him run off re-inforces this behavior and he will blow you off whenever he feels like it.

Never just turn your dog out of his crate and let him take off. WHOA him and make him stand until you are ready, then release him and handle him when needed.

+1

Charlie

[Louburk]

I would start with the basics and do the same routine you do in the yard, just in a new location. Try to keep his focus. Even if you have to take a few minutes when you get to your hunting spot, do a few drills. A refresher in the field might save you from chasing the dog all over God's creation.

And when you jump a deer, if he pursues, you better light him up with that e-collar. Do that a few times and he won't even want to smell a deer.

[Mike Rossi]

with the e technology we got today, most dogs are trainable, despite breeding, so dont give up.

first treat train your dog inside a building or enclosure. then e collar condition your dog. when your dog will come to you in a controlable area, reintro the woods and fields. Put a bell on him. When you cant hear the bell - dog is out of range and you whistle & nick him. if you pre conditioned him he should comply, if not go back to the yard. once you got him to keep within bell range, use the same whistle and nick to keep him in a forward pattern restricted to the front and 11 oclock to 1 oclock. if he gets distracted and dwells on ground scent, heel or collar him 50 yards , if he even appears to think about returning whistle and nick - dont wait.

after some time with success call him in ( you might give him some water or a treat, or pet him) but then allow him to hunt some more- that way he doesnt refuse to come in because it means the fun is over, which he will eventually have to deal with but cushion the blow for some time until maturity catches up.

it another trick is to make frequent 90 degree turns and whistle the dog to pivot to the front of you. this increases the learning curve and you wear the dog out before he wears you out.