Training progression question

[lockeman500]

hi folks - I am fairly new to hunting, and have never trained a gun dog. however, I did have a great deal of success training basic obedience in my last dog - a Lab. He heeled perfectly, and finished (come when called, sit in front, then come around to heel) sat perfectly, came perfectly etc. I used the Kohler method of dog training.

This method is intensive with on leash work, using a training collar (woodhouse or choke chain).

I now have a 5 month old Brittany that I want to train as a pointer, and to do water retrieves as well. I want the dog to be a very good pointer (backs well etc) This dog is from a good solid line. I also want it to have strong basic obedience traits.

My question: If I do the intensive 13 week obedience training, will I ruin anything for the hunting? I am most concerned that if I spend so much time working on leash and having the dog watching me all the time, that he won't move out to 20 - 30 yds and quarter like I want him to. I also don't want to ruin any of his other potential hunting traits. I am not concerned about "breaking his spirit" etc. with the training, as my last dog was wonderful.

I am more than ready to start the obedience training, as I wish to get him heeling on our walks ASAP. In the method I want to use though, it requires a good week of long line work first. This is the part I am most concerned with. In this work, the dog is supposed to go with you on the line, no matter what -- distractions are introduced etc until the dog only watches the handler, and always maintains a slack line.

then and only then is heeling introduced.

Anyway - I am rambling now. Any help on the question above would be greatly appreciated.

lockeman500

[Don]

Before obedience work starts, do a bunch of happy timing, take him out and let him go as he pleases and just stay with him. When obedience starts you'll have a release command that let's the dog do as it will for the length of the lead. Before and after an obedience session take him to a field, give him that command and let him go. If the dog is well bred, I doubt you'll bury the instincts so deep you can't retrieve them but both things can be done at the same time. I believe that the key will be happy timing. He'll look forward to it.

[Lab Man]

I personally like to bring out all the natural instincts of the dog before I get really serious on obedience. Its very important to read your dog if its ready for this kind of obedience program. I will teach my young pups the come in command and that is about it until we are showing all the natural instincts to be a good bird dog. I would taking this dog on a lead for walks in the environment it will be hunting. Heal is the last command we teach to our pointing breeds. In my opinion you want these dogs to learn to be away from you and not at your side when they are young. I want them to be independent, but also understand that I am in control of them and that is why its important to keep them on a lead.
Now Labrador Retrievers I train totally different because they have to be in control and in close at all times being a flushing dog compared to a pointer. Good luck

[gonehuntin']

I think you're spending way too much time on obedience. I usually put a dog through a force and obedience course in 6-8 weeks, and that's combined.

I want them to be a wild indian when I start this. They'll be bird crazy, ranging well in the field, pointing, and used to terrain and water. Once they've been conditioned to all of this, I then start the obedience and force. Introduction to, and constant exposure to birds, pointing or retrieving, is the way great bird dog's are built. That bird need only be a pigeon, nothing exotic.

[steady on point]

The biggest problem I see with dogs put through obedience before birds is the owners overdo the sit command. That becomes the dogs natural response whenever they are confused and any pressure is put on them.

I end up having to untrain the dog to stand up tall and not sit when being worked on holding point etc.