Lead training my brittany pup

[Hunting cop]

I just got a brittany pup 1 week ago. The pup is 3 months old and came from a good breeder. Everyone I have talked to says brittanys are naturally kind of shy anyway. I have started trying to get it used to a leash. When I put it on him at first he fought it. He has quit fighting it now but just lays down and won't move. Any tips on how to get him to quit laying down.

[JIM K]

when toby my lab was that age i just let him drag leash around as he played in house or yard.
he would chew on it but in week or so, he got used to it.

[AzDoggin]

Brittanies are MASTERS at avoidance. All dogs will attempt various things, but the Britts are so doggone cute and they know it, and they're just very good at it. The four "escape routes" are fight, flight, fakery and freezing - usually fakery and freezing are the strengths of the Britts

I would highly suggest you get Huntsmith Puppy Deveolpment I DVD. You can google it. It will tell you all you need to know about the early training and conditioning. The early collar conditioning consists of putting pup on a stakeout chain, letting him have his fight with the chain, not you. You approach when he's calm and standing. For everything - he gets to move on when he's calm and standing.

To get pup to stand, just gently crowd him. As you move closer and closer and eventually touch him with your boot, he'll eventually stand. Or, he may move over 6 inches and sull up again. You very patiently and slowly move into him again - as you start to touch him, he'll stand. Don't say a word, don't get irritated with him.

One major goal of puppyhood is that the pup learn to accept restriction from you. Calm in the crate, calm on a tether, calm on a leash, calm on a training table. He only gets your attention by being calm. If you accomplish that, he's ready to learn...

Here's some good stuff from one of our members, kninebirddog - she's a Brittany breeder, trialer and long-time dog person:

after the pup is used to the collar I like to take about a 6-8 foot lead and let them run around the backyard dragging the lead. When the pup runs by I will simply step on the lead. As soon as the pup stops fighting the lead I will lift my foot off and let the pup run some more repeating the process after a little bit. This will start the pup to learn to give in to the lead and the collar.

To help a pup learn to be still and giving in to a form of restraint when the pup in front of you when they start to move take one hand under the chest and the other hand under the back legs and lift the pup up. When the pup is settles down and relaxes in your hands place the pup back down, when the pup moves, lift up. Do this until the pup stands still, even if you are successful for just a moment you can always build from there. Walk the pup around and the repeat one more time Always set your pup up for success. And keep the sessions fun.

Here is another game for dinnertime. Put the pup’s food on the edge of a counter or where you can easily hold on to the pups collar with one hand and reach the bowl with the other. Try not to pull on the collar while bringing down the bowl of food. Bring it down at a steady pace, not real slow and not real fast either. When the pup starts to pull forward, lift up the food. When the pup stops pulling, start to bring the bowl down again. You do not need to say a command. Your pup is learning that when they stand still the food comes down when they move the food goes away from them. The first time you get the bowl of food to the ground without the pup moving, even for a moment, say ok or tap on the head to release the pup quickly. Remember, you can always build up from there when you pup becomes consistent you can ask for a few more seconds. Keep things with in your pups’ attention span. And keep the sessions light short sweet and simple.

Read more: http://www.kninebirddog.com/puppy-found ... z1uwmcPaAz

[ToddW7]

+1 on Huntsmith Puppy Development #1 DVD