Puppy Food

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CWT
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Puppy Food

Post by CWT » Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:31 pm

Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine

Nutrition for the Growing Puppy
Growing dogs exhibit omnivorous feeding behavior and therefore their diet should be comprised of
proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water in the correct proportions. A puppy food that meets these requirements is called a “Complete” or “Balanced” diet. The amount of food a puppy requires changes during growth and depends on the puppy’s age, breed, gender, activity,
temperament, environment and metabolism.

Energy
Puppies should be fed to grow at an average rather than at maximum rate for their breed. Feeding for average growth decreases the risk of skeletal deformities. Growing dogs reach a similar adult weight whether growth rate is rapid or slow.

Proteins
Comprised of 23 different amino acids, proteins are often called the “building blocks” of the tissues. The dog’s body can manufacture 13 of these amino acids. The other 10 amino acids, however, must come from outside meat and plant sources and are called the “essential amino acids”.
The biological value of a protein is a measure of that protein’s ability to supply amino acids, particularly the 10 essential amino acids, and to supply these amino acids in the proper proportions. In general, animal proteins (meat, by-product meal) have higher biological value than vegetable proteins (soybean meal, corn gluten meal).

Fats
Fats are used to supply energy, essential fatty acids, and transport the fat-soluble Vitamins A, D, E and K. In addition, fats make a diet more palatable to a puppy. Fats help to maintain a healthy skin and haircoat. However, if a puppy’s fat intake is very high, it may result in the puppy eating excessive amount of energy that may predispose to growth spurts, rapid growth, developmental orthopedic diseases, weight gain and obesity.
If the fat becomes rancid, it destroys Vitamins E and A, and linoleic acid, leading to deficiencies of
these essential nutrients. Commercial dog foods contain special natural or synthetic additives called
“antioxidants” to prevent rancidity and prolong shelf-life.

Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates provide energy and are made up primarily of sugars, starches and cellulose (fiber).
Carbohydrates are supplied in the diet from plant sources such as grains and vegetables. The sugars are 100 percent digestible. Starches, which are the largest part of most plant carbohydrates, need to be cooked before they can be digested and utilized by the puppy. Cellulose is not digestible, but it is used for its fiber content in the diet which helps to maintain gastrointestinal health. Carbohydrates are a direct source of energy and are also protein-sparing nutrients. Without
carbohydrates and fats, the puppy’s body must convert protein to glucose to obtain energy;
consequently, these proteins are no longer available for the building and growth of body tissues.







Vitamins
Vitamins are necessary for many of the body’s chemical reactions. Fat-soluble Vitamins A, D, E and K need fat in the diet to be absorbed by the body. The B-complex vitamins dissolve in water and are
readily absorbed by the body. Vitamin C also dissolves in water, but it is not needed in the canine diet because dogs can make it themselves. “Complete” and “Balanced” commercial puppy foods don’t need additional vitamin supplementation.

Minerals
Minerals are needed by the body for structural building and chemical reactions. Like vitamins, minerals are supplied in the correct proportions in “Complete” and “Balanced” commercial puppy foods. Damage can be done by oversupplementaion. This is particularly true for calcium and phosphorus, because the proportions of these two minerals must be supplied to the puppy in the proper ratios for healthy growth and bone development.

Water
Water is the most important nutrient for all animals. Healthy puppies regulate their water intake so long as clean and fresh water is always available to them.

Feeding a Balanced Diet
Puppies require a diet that regularly includes proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and
water for proper nutrition and growth. Of equal importance is the balance of these nutrients in the diet. A commercial puppy food is the most convenient method of ensuring a dog receives these nutrients in correct proportions.

Choosing a Commercial Puppy Food
Pet food manufacturers have developed foods that may be safely fed as a puppy’s sole diet without
supplementation. Such foods can be identified by the words “complete and balanced nutrition” on the label. These claims are regulated by federal and state agencies.
The product may simply be formulated to meet the expected nutritional needs of the puppy or the
product can be chemically analyzed to be sure all the expected nutrients are present. If these methods are used to justify that claim of “complete and balanced” nutrition, the puppy food label should include a statement that the nutritional adequacy is based on a comparison to known nutritional standards. Look for these words on such products: “Meets the nutritional requirements of puppies established by the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).” Feeding a puppy a product that does not have a nutritional claim on the label cannot guarantee a complete and balanced diet for the animal.

Alternative and preferred method to verify the nutritional adequacy is through actual feeding trials for
growth. While exact wording will vary, pet foods which have been tested in this way should state the
following on the label: “Complete and balanced nutrition for growing dogs based on AAFCO feeding
trials.” It is best to look for these words when selecting a puppy food.
Complete and balanced puppy foods primarily come in two forms: dry and canned. All contain the
essential nutrients the puppy needs – the primary difference is the amount of water in the product.
Canned foods are sometimes more palatable, while dry foods are more economical.
After selecting a puppy food, the final and most effective evaluation is accomplished by feeding your
puppy the food and judging the results. Frequently changing from one palatable food to another may
contribute to a finicky eater, juvenile obesity and altered growth. If your puppy thrives and looks healthy when fed this food exclusively, then this is the best test that can be given in evaluating a puppy food. Growing dogs should not receive vitamin-mineral supplements when fed complete, balanced commercial food. Adding vitamin or mineral supplements, particularly calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D may lead to developmental orthopedic diseases and excesses. Only use supplements when they are recommended by your veterinarian. Feeding a complete balanced diet with fresh water is all most puppies need to stay nutritionally healthy.

Small-, Medium-, and Large-Breed Commercial Puppy Foods
Many commercial puppy foods are designated for puppies of small-, medium-, and large-breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of small- to medium-sized breeds (< 25 kg of adult body weight) may continue to receive the same food as the bitch received during lactation. Large- and giantbreed puppies (>25 kg adult body weight) should be fed a food that contains less energy and calcium to decrease the risk of developmental orthopedic diseases. If possible, such foods should be fed during early weaning.


Treats
Treats, snacks and human food should be minimized. In general, dietary balance is maintained when less than 10% of the daily intake consists from treats (snacks, human foods) and the reminder is a complete and balanced food. The calcium and energy content of treats should be similar to that
recommended for the food. If not, the number of treats should be limited. Treats increase energy intake and given in large numbers may almost double a puppy’s calcium intake!!

Feeding Management and Monitoring
A new food should be selected for the stage-of-life (puppy) and/or based on the anticipated adult body weight (small-, medium-, large-breed puppy). Some breeders suggest feeding an adult maintenance diet rather than a growth diet to large- and giant-breed puppies. However, adult maintenance diets are not formulated for growth and may result in malnutrition. It is therefore best to choose a diet designed for large- and giant-breed puppies. Food selected should also have passed AAFCO feeding trials for puppies. The best way to determine how much to feed is to first estimate the puppy’s energy needs for the given age and then calculate the amount of puppy food that must be fed to meet that need. Another way to determine the amount to feed is to use guidelines included on the commercial pet food label. These guidelines usually provide estimates of the quantity to feed for several different ranges in body size. Such instructions provide only a rough estimate that can be used as a starting point when first feeding a particular brand food. Growing dogs have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow.
During the growth, it is recommended to feed puppies a measured amount of the food (using 8 oz.
measuring cup) to allow better control of body weight and growth rate. This amount can be fed in 2 – 4 meals per day. After 6 months of age, two meals per day can be fed. Free-choice feeding should be avoided in growing puppies unless they are extremely thin. When introducing a new food to your puppy, blend it gradually with the existing diet in increasing amounts over at least 4 days until the new food replaces the old. This process should prevent food rejection and gastrointestinal upset.
Free choice fresh and clean water must be available at all times to your puppy!!
Body weight, Body Condition Score (BCS) and food intake (including treats and snacks) should be
determined and recorded on weekly basis. The amount of food that is fed should be adjusted every 2 weeks. Puppies whose nutrition is well-managed are alert, active, have an ideal BCS (5/9) with a stable growth rate and a healthy coat. Stools should be firm, well-formed and medium to dark brown.
As a rule of thumb, small- and medium-sized dogs (adult weight up to 25 kg) reach about 50% of their adult weight around 4 months of age and dogs with adult weights greater than 25 kg at about 5 months of age. Small and medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large and giant breeds between 14 – 18 months of age.









Food Storage
Unused portions of canned food should be refrigerated, to maintain quality and prevent spoilage until
the next feeding. To prevent possible digestion problems related to temperature differences,
refrigerated food should be brought to room temperature before it is offered to the pet.
Dry food should be stored in a cool, dry location, and used within 6 months of purchase. Lengthy
storage decreases the activity and potency of many vitamins. Storing dry food in an airtight container
will prevent further nutrient deterioration and help maintain palatability.
Homemade Diets
There is no objection to feeding a puppy a homemade diet. However, if a homemade diet is used, it
should be prepared from recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced by experienced
nutritionist. Feeding single food items or diets consisting of an indiscriminate mixture of human foods
often results in dietary-induced disease.

Precautions of Non-Commercial Foods
Raw meat: Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for the puppies and the owner. Eggs: Eggs are an excellent source of protein. However, raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella. Milk: Some puppies cannot tolerate milk and in these cases, it should be avoided. Liver: Liver contains high biological value protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. However, raw liver is a potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Overfeeding liver may cause Vitamin A toxicity. Bones/Cowhide “bones”: Bones help to keep tartar from building up on dogs’ teeth; however, the dangers of bone chewing are digestive upsets, intestinal blockages and perforations. Chocolate, coffee, tea: Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems. Chocolate and candy should never be fed to puppies. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes are potential toxins in the puppy if eaten in large quantity. Baby food: Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts. Table scraps: Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet.

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luvthemud
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by luvthemud » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:37 pm

Oh boy.....

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markj
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by markj » Wed Apr 22, 2015 11:25 am

I spilled some cracked corn last time I got a ton in (2 weeks ago) my dogs ate it up, should I be worried cause they do it every time I get corn. :)

(toss out the bait)
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luvthemud
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by luvthemud » Wed Apr 22, 2015 12:22 pm

markj wrote:I spilled some cracked corn last time I got a ton in (2 weeks ago) my dogs ate it up, should I be worried cause they do it every time I get corn. :)

(toss out the bait)

Fishin is slow today.........

I will say, I did find this statement in the article a little strange:

"Table scraps should not be more than 10% of the diet."

I was always under the assumption, especially for a puppy, that table scraps should be 0% of the diet.



Maybe that will generate some bites for ya.

CWT
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by CWT » Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:40 am

Some other sites I am on are having the great dog food debate. So actually I posted this here mainly to show that carbs are good for dogs. But ya'll already knew that but you may want to share the university info with others one day.

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markj
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by markj » Thu Apr 23, 2015 7:42 pm

luvthemud wrote:
markj wrote:I spilled some cracked corn last time I got a ton in (2 weeks ago) my dogs ate it up, should I be worried cause they do it every time I get corn. :)

(toss out the bait)

Fishin is slow today.........

I will say, I did find this statement in the article a little strange:

"Table scraps should not be more than 10% of the diet."

I was always under the assumption, especially for a puppy, that table scraps should be 0% of the diet.


Maybe that will generate some bites for ya.


Table scraps are ok in moderatikon. Shoot my buddy from poland makes his own dog chow, uses meat scraps cooked in water then rice tossed in to absorb the water. He says no dog food stores in poland. Dogs can eat garbage and do well. .

Grain isnt bad for a dog either, my dogs been eating loose grain well since I was a little kid in the early 60's. Hasnt hurt one yet. Corn has a lot of protein, this is a good thing. Cracked is best too.

The media in this country has ruined many a mind, going to write a book on this subject. People and their uniforms I think I will call it. How media has mind washed the American public. How gullible etc.
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oldbeek
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by oldbeek » Thu Apr 23, 2015 8:59 pm

Gpa had an English setter. he was a chicken farmer and dog only got laying mash. When Gpa got sick we thought an uncle took care of the dog. He didn't. Dog survived in the wild for 2 years on chicken eggs, avocados and varmits. We brought the dog to LA at age 12 and he was still hunting at 16. He also would strip our home avocado tree just before fruit was ripe and bury them for later. Dad would raise heck that us kids were stealing his avocados.

setterpoint
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by setterpoint » Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:23 am

someone should have went to jail. no reason for any animal to have to live like that. I don't believe this story

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Sharon
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by Sharon » Fri Apr 24, 2015 1:36 pm

I believe it. Dogs are survivors.

re corn : We have bird feeders in the back yard. Dogs love to munch up anything left on the ground . Risk is moldy corn lying around through the winter, which can make a dog sick. You have to clean up moldy corn fast for those of you that have bird feeders.
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by polmaise » Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:24 pm

CWT wrote:Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine

Nutrition for the Growing Puppy
Growing dogs exhibit omnivorous feeding behavior and therefore their diet should be comprised of
proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water in the correct proportions. A puppy food that meets these requirements is called a “Complete” or “Balanced” diet. The amount of food a puppy requires changes during growth and depends on the puppy’s age, breed, gender, activity,
temperament, environment and metabolism.

Energy
Puppies should be fed to grow at an average rather than at maximum rate for their breed. Feeding for average growth decreases the risk of skeletal deformities. Growing dogs reach a similar adult weight whether growth rate is rapid or slow.

Proteins
Comprised of 23 different amino acids, proteins are often called the “building blocks” of the tissues. The dog’s body can manufacture 13 of these amino acids. The other 10 amino acids, however, must come from outside meat and plant sources and are called the “essential amino acids”.
The biological value of a protein is a measure of that protein’s ability to supply amino acids, particularly the 10 essential amino acids, and to supply these amino acids in the proper proportions. In general, animal proteins (meat, by-product meal) have higher biological value than vegetable proteins (soybean meal, corn gluten meal).

Fats
Fats are used to supply energy, essential fatty acids, and transport the fat-soluble Vitamins A, D, E and K. In addition, fats make a diet more palatable to a puppy. Fats help to maintain a healthy skin and haircoat. However, if a puppy’s fat intake is very high, it may result in the puppy eating excessive amount of energy that may predispose to growth spurts, rapid growth, developmental orthopedic diseases, weight gain and obesity.
If the fat becomes rancid, it destroys Vitamins E and A, and linoleic acid, leading to deficiencies of
these essential nutrients. Commercial dog foods contain special natural or synthetic additives called
“antioxidants” to prevent rancidity and prolong shelf-life.

Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates provide energy and are made up primarily of sugars, starches and cellulose (fiber).
Carbohydrates are supplied in the diet from plant sources such as grains and vegetables. The sugars are 100 percent digestible. Starches, which are the largest part of most plant carbohydrates, need to be cooked before they can be digested and utilized by the puppy. Cellulose is not digestible, but it is used for its fiber content in the diet which helps to maintain gastrointestinal health. Carbohydrates are a direct source of energy and are also protein-sparing nutrients. Without
carbohydrates and fats, the puppy’s body must convert protein to glucose to obtain energy;
consequently, these proteins are no longer available for the building and growth of body tissues.







Vitamins
Vitamins are necessary for many of the body’s chemical reactions. Fat-soluble Vitamins A, D, E and K need fat in the diet to be absorbed by the body. The B-complex vitamins dissolve in water and are
readily absorbed by the body. Vitamin C also dissolves in water, but it is not needed in the canine diet because dogs can make it themselves. “Complete” and “Balanced” commercial puppy foods don’t need additional vitamin supplementation.

Minerals
Minerals are needed by the body for structural building and chemical reactions. Like vitamins, minerals are supplied in the correct proportions in “Complete” and “Balanced” commercial puppy foods. Damage can be done by oversupplementaion. This is particularly true for calcium and phosphorus, because the proportions of these two minerals must be supplied to the puppy in the proper ratios for healthy growth and bone development.

Water
Water is the most important nutrient for all animals. Healthy puppies regulate their water intake so long as clean and fresh water is always available to them.

Feeding a Balanced Diet
Puppies require a diet that regularly includes proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals and
water for proper nutrition and growth. Of equal importance is the balance of these nutrients in the diet. A commercial puppy food is the most convenient method of ensuring a dog receives these nutrients in correct proportions.

Choosing a Commercial Puppy Food
Pet food manufacturers have developed foods that may be safely fed as a puppy’s sole diet without
supplementation. Such foods can be identified by the words “complete and balanced nutrition” on the label. These claims are regulated by federal and state agencies.
The product may simply be formulated to meet the expected nutritional needs of the puppy or the
product can be chemically analyzed to be sure all the expected nutrients are present. If these methods are used to justify that claim of “complete and balanced” nutrition, the puppy food label should include a statement that the nutritional adequacy is based on a comparison to known nutritional standards. Look for these words on such products: “Meets the nutritional requirements of puppies established by the American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).” Feeding a puppy a product that does not have a nutritional claim on the label cannot guarantee a complete and balanced diet for the animal.

Alternative and preferred method to verify the nutritional adequacy is through actual feeding trials for
growth. While exact wording will vary, pet foods which have been tested in this way should state the
following on the label: “Complete and balanced nutrition for growing dogs based on AAFCO feeding
trials.” It is best to look for these words when selecting a puppy food.
Complete and balanced puppy foods primarily come in two forms: dry and canned. All contain the
essential nutrients the puppy needs – the primary difference is the amount of water in the product.
Canned foods are sometimes more palatable, while dry foods are more economical.
After selecting a puppy food, the final and most effective evaluation is accomplished by feeding your
puppy the food and judging the results. Frequently changing from one palatable food to another may
contribute to a finicky eater, juvenile obesity and altered growth. If your puppy thrives and looks healthy when fed this food exclusively, then this is the best test that can be given in evaluating a puppy food. Growing dogs should not receive vitamin-mineral supplements when fed complete, balanced commercial food. Adding vitamin or mineral supplements, particularly calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D may lead to developmental orthopedic diseases and excesses. Only use supplements when they are recommended by your veterinarian. Feeding a complete balanced diet with fresh water is all most puppies need to stay nutritionally healthy.

Small-, Medium-, and Large-Breed Commercial Puppy Foods
Many commercial puppy foods are designated for puppies of small-, medium-, and large-breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of small- to medium-sized breeds (< 25 kg of adult body weight) may continue to receive the same food as the bitch received during lactation. Large- and giantbreed puppies (>25 kg adult body weight) should be fed a food that contains less energy and calcium to decrease the risk of developmental orthopedic diseases. If possible, such foods should be fed during early weaning.


Treats
Treats, snacks and human food should be minimized. In general, dietary balance is maintained when less than 10% of the daily intake consists from treats (snacks, human foods) and the reminder is a complete and balanced food. The calcium and energy content of treats should be similar to that
recommended for the food. If not, the number of treats should be limited. Treats increase energy intake and given in large numbers may almost double a puppy’s calcium intake!!

Feeding Management and Monitoring
A new food should be selected for the stage-of-life (puppy) and/or based on the anticipated adult body weight (small-, medium-, large-breed puppy). Some breeders suggest feeding an adult maintenance diet rather than a growth diet to large- and giant-breed puppies. However, adult maintenance diets are not formulated for growth and may result in malnutrition. It is therefore best to choose a diet designed for large- and giant-breed puppies. Food selected should also have passed AAFCO feeding trials for puppies. The best way to determine how much to feed is to first estimate the puppy’s energy needs for the given age and then calculate the amount of puppy food that must be fed to meet that need. Another way to determine the amount to feed is to use guidelines included on the commercial pet food label. These guidelines usually provide estimates of the quantity to feed for several different ranges in body size. Such instructions provide only a rough estimate that can be used as a starting point when first feeding a particular brand food. Growing dogs have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow.
During the growth, it is recommended to feed puppies a measured amount of the food (using 8 oz.
measuring cup) to allow better control of body weight and growth rate. This amount can be fed in 2 – 4 meals per day. After 6 months of age, two meals per day can be fed. Free-choice feeding should be avoided in growing puppies unless they are extremely thin. When introducing a new food to your puppy, blend it gradually with the existing diet in increasing amounts over at least 4 days until the new food replaces the old. This process should prevent food rejection and gastrointestinal upset.
Free choice fresh and clean water must be available at all times to your puppy!!
Body weight, Body Condition Score (BCS) and food intake (including treats and snacks) should be
determined and recorded on weekly basis. The amount of food that is fed should be adjusted every 2 weeks. Puppies whose nutrition is well-managed are alert, active, have an ideal BCS (5/9) with a stable growth rate and a healthy coat. Stools should be firm, well-formed and medium to dark brown.
As a rule of thumb, small- and medium-sized dogs (adult weight up to 25 kg) reach about 50% of their adult weight around 4 months of age and dogs with adult weights greater than 25 kg at about 5 months of age. Small and medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large and giant breeds between 14 – 18 months of age.









Food Storage
Unused portions of canned food should be refrigerated, to maintain quality and prevent spoilage until
the next feeding. To prevent possible digestion problems related to temperature differences,
refrigerated food should be brought to room temperature before it is offered to the pet.
Dry food should be stored in a cool, dry location, and used within 6 months of purchase. Lengthy
storage decreases the activity and potency of many vitamins. Storing dry food in an airtight container
will prevent further nutrient deterioration and help maintain palatability.
Homemade Diets
There is no objection to feeding a puppy a homemade diet. However, if a homemade diet is used, it
should be prepared from recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced by experienced
nutritionist. Feeding single food items or diets consisting of an indiscriminate mixture of human foods
often results in dietary-induced disease.

Precautions of Non-Commercial Foods
Raw meat: Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for the puppies and the owner. Eggs: Eggs are an excellent source of protein. However, raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella. Milk: Some puppies cannot tolerate milk and in these cases, it should be avoided. Liver: Liver contains high biological value protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. However, raw liver is a potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Overfeeding liver may cause Vitamin A toxicity. Bones/Cowhide “bones”: Bones help to keep tartar from building up on dogs’ teeth; however, the dangers of bone chewing are digestive upsets, intestinal blockages and perforations. Chocolate, coffee, tea: Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems. Chocolate and candy should never be fed to puppies. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes are potential toxins in the puppy if eaten in large quantity. Baby food: Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts. Table scraps: Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet.
Can you elaborate a bit more 'CWT' ?

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Re: Puppy Food

Post by Trekmoor » Sat Apr 25, 2015 4:09 am

:lol: :lol:
If I had to read and understand all that prior to having a pup or a dog then I would never have had one.
A shooting enthusiast up here in Haggisland bought himself an adult trained lab. He was daft enough to take it training to a place it had never been before the dog really knew him or obeyed him. The dog got lost and wasn't found until the following spring. It had survived on whatever it had found for several months right through the winter.

I am told it was no longer soft mouthed though.

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markj
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by markj » Sat Apr 25, 2015 2:25 pm

Jail? really? Ever watch axe men? Old swampy never feeds his dogs, they get by on what they catch, vet told him his dog was in the best condition. Dogs can find stuff to eat, catch what they can and do very well. Jail? why not horse whup the guy?.... Man the older I get......
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setterpoint
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by setterpoint » Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:38 pm

im not saying a dog cant eat corn scraps and survive but I am saying someone has a dog and only feed the dog laying mash should not be aloud to even own a pet

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ezzy333
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by ezzy333 » Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:58 pm

setterpoint wrote:im not saying a dog cant eat corn scraps and survive but I am saying someone has a dog and only feed the dog laying mash should not be aloud to even own a pet
May I ask what is bad about layer Mash? I'll bet, and granted I may be wrong, you don't know what is used in a layer feed. As I have posted before that used to be common practice before you could buy Dog Food, only most I am aware of fed Pig Starter Pellets and not a layer crumble because of the fines in the crumbles. But the feeds were pretty similar. And probably no where near as different than a dog food as you would think.

Ezzy
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markj
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by markj » Sun Apr 26, 2015 9:57 am

Like I said, the older I get....

Young people are so far away from the old days they jump before they look :) oh no there is a cliff there.....

We just fed the dogs table scraps, trimmings from butchering, offal from them buthceud animals, eggs, milk by products, well just about whatever we had since any town had a store was 40 miles away and we got there 1 time a month.
should not be aloud to even own a pet
And just who are you to judge folks on what they do? Must be from PETA or some other tree hugging group of know it alls.
You do as you wish, let others do as they wish, or do you want everyones life regulated by some form of govt entity?
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=1103
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=5210
"If there are no dogs in Heaven,
then when I die I want to go
where they went."
Will Rogers, 1897-1935

setterpoint
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by setterpoint » Sun Apr 26, 2015 12:20 pm

feed your dog what ever you wont. and I will feed mine. turn your dog loose and let it eat your neighbors chickens I don't care. but to own a pet hunting dog or not there are resp.. that go with it.. and don't ever take your dog to the vet he can make own his own

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greg jacobs
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by greg jacobs » Sun Apr 26, 2015 12:44 pm

A guy had rescued a dog. It was near a week, the dog still hadn't eaten more than a few bites. Early one morning here comes the dog around the corner, heading out into the weeds with a neighbors chicken in his mouth. Must have preferred chicken to dog food.

polmaise
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Re: Puppy Food

Post by polmaise » Sun Apr 26, 2015 2:30 pm

If you look back or search this section on dogs eating poo ,their own and others ,and the many that have this issue and the many posted world wide on many fora.
It's surprising that dog food manufacturers and owners have not 'Picked up' on this and either marketed it or prosecuted :roll:

setterpoint
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Location: jellico tn

Re: Puppy Food

Post by setterpoint » Sun Apr 26, 2015 3:46 pm

all my dogs will eat grass I don't know why must be something they need dog food is not supplying but I don't feed them a bale of hay a day I would say that chicken tasted good an the dog liked it. I bet neighbor was not to happy though

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markj
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Location: Crescent Iowa

Re: Puppy Food

Post by markj » Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:21 pm

My vet says my dogs are very healthy. One older female had a growth on her chest was scraping on teh dog house entrance, so the vet removed it surgically. Was 150.00 and well spent. What does feeding a dog non packaged dog food have to do with a vet? Are you changing horses mid stream? you gonna get wet if you is pard. :) Out here in the county, I get the vet out to work my baby steers and the dogs at the same time :) house call is 52.00 now and again money well spent when you have 5 shorthairs to do at one time. We do some hunting here, a lot of hunting like every day :) the dogs burn up a lot of energy I feed them a lot of meat boiled up in rice, keeps them on their toes it does. My young son eats all the leftovers, I never get any :( unless its steak. Was going to retire soon but we got pregnant :) so now looks like I will be 70 before I can get to retire. He is learning the trade, cows and dogs. Makes a man out of a boy fast.
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=1103
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=5210
"If there are no dogs in Heaven,
then when I die I want to go
where they went."
Will Rogers, 1897-1935

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