Remington 1100 issues

[BirdieBoiler]

My Remington 1100 is having some major issues cycling shells...It simply WON'T!!! Anyone had this issue? Any clues on how to get it solved?? Thanks everyone!!!

[pear]

Could be several things, first off make sure it's not the 1100 Mag. They simply won't cycle anything but 2 3/4 and 3 inch mags. If that is not the case check the condition of the "O"ring on the shell tube (magazine), if you find that to be in good shape, my next best guess the gun just plainly needs a good cleaning, paying close attention to the gas ports in the barrel near the magazine lug (loop). It is also possible the weights me be on wrong but I doubt that will be the reason. ..."pear"

[Big Dave]

Make sure the cylinder tube is clean and so are the two rings that slide on it. I lube these parts and then wipe them until nearly dry. Put the rings back on the tube and make sure they slide easily up and down the tube. Check the rubber o-ring on the end of the tube and the gas ports as mentioned.

[dog dr]

all the above is good advice. if that doesnt solve the problem (it SHOULD), then take it to a gunsmith.

[Greg Jennings]

Have shot 1100's for decades. They can be sensitive.

-- The number one thing is that they are clean and dry (no *visible* lube).
-- The O-ring must be there and not have hunks out of it.
-- The gas ports must be open...use a drill bit or steel wool on a small mandrel to clean them.
-- The entire inside of the gas housing that attaches the barrel to the magazine tube must be clean. Steel wool works well.
-- The magazine tube must be clean and lubed, but be dry.
-- Make sure that the *inside* of the magazine tube and the magazine spring aren't rusted. They should be clean up and dry lubed.
-- The fire control must be clean. I use a spray solvent and then dry lube.
-- The fire control must be properly inserted into the receiver. If you've forced it in hard, take it to a gunsmith.
-- The magazine latchspring must be in the right place. But, it's hard to get the fire control back in without it being right....
-- The intercepter latch retainer must be in place. If you have split ring pliars, you can replace them yourself.
-- The action spring and its housing in the buttstock must be clean, rust free and dry lubed.

If you're nearby which is, of course, unlikely, I'd be happy to give it a look-see for you.

[BirdieBoiler]

Thanks guys...I got it fixed up and cycling well

[pear]

Just for reference, what turned out to be the problem, or problems? Thanks "pear"

[claybuster_aa]

I guessing the rings were on backwards.

Charlie

[Greg Jennings]

For future reference:

Three rings. From "bottom to top", flat on flat, bevel in the bevel, ring in the groove.

[Hotpepper]

Great Information

Pepper

[BirdieBoiler]

Well I guess I KINDA fixed the issue...I pulled the trimmer assembly and cleaned it...Now it cycles heavier phez loads, like 1 1/4 oz. BUT won't cycle lighter quail or sport loads, 1 1/8 oz. Its all confusing. I'll just have to shoot a heavier load this season and once it goes out take it to a gun smith...who knows

[nj gsp]

o-ring, and make sure the gas ports in the barrel are clean.

I can't for the life of me remember the dash number for it, but you can get them at a hardware store for around 25 cents.

[Greg Jennings]

Is it an 1100 magnum?

Look inside the gas housing that attaches the barrel to the magazine tube? How many holes? There should be 2. Clean them well. If there is 1, something is BAD wrong.

As mentioned, make sure that you have an O-ring that fits into the groove on the magazine tube.

There are 3 rings total: two metal and the rubber O-ring. They have to go on in the right order. They have to be clean and dry-lubed inside. Further, the magazine tube has to be clean and dry-lubed. If the two metal rings don't slide freely up and down the magazine tube, something is too dirty or something worse is wrong.

Check out this link http://www.remingtonsociety.com/images/ ... sembly.pdf

You can also probably find a lot more information on the base site http://www.remingtonsociety.com/

[BigShooter]

Good advice here. We tend to concentrate on o-rings and cleaning the gas ports and these are very important! I know this has already been mentioned but I'd just like to extend the discussion about keeping the magazine clean. Shells frequently are not carried in a clean environment, especially when hunting. I tend to throw loose shells in my hunting jacket or vest. Walk through a slough, the woods or even tall grass and those same pockets end up with extra debris in them. This extra debris can end up in your magazine when you feed in more shells. With an autoloader if your magazine and shell follower are not clean and freely popping the next shell out, your gun may have problems cycling correctly.

[Greg Jennings]

Good point!

I overhauled a 20 year old 1100 Magnum this summer that had been used for a LOT of duck hunting. The inside of the magazine tube and the spring were NASTY. I cleaned them up, polished with Flitz and dry lubed.

Ditto the tube in the buttstock that carries the action spring.

Greg J.

[claybuster_aa]

Pop out the two pins that hold the trigger and pull it straight out. Next take out the link. Now you can fully access the back part of the receiver and give that a good cleaning...that could very well be slowing down your bolt. Assembly is the opposite, but you will probably need needle-nose pliers to squeeze the link back into place. It is not that difficult and should be part of your routine cleaning of the gun say every third or fourth cleaning. Don't use oil inside the gun, just wipe it dry after a slovent cleaning. Oils can gum up the works. You can use the Rem-Oil Spray like a solvent, it has cleaner in it, but wipe it dry throughly before putting the gun back together.

Charlie

[BigShooter]

We all have our little tricks (or quirks ). A certain amount of debris found in actions often isn't removed with gun cleaning solvents alone. My personal preference is to avoid soaking the inside of a wooden stock with solvents. This can happen, especially in the area where the butt stock meets the receiver. As a shortcut to 100% disassembly and when cleaning hard to reach areas, like the area around the return spring at the very back of the receiver, after removing the bolt I use compressed air from an air compressor. You can buy compressed air blow guns that have very long, narrow 1/4 inch tubes to reach these areas. Some are telescopic from say 12 1/2" to 24 inches. Some have rotating tips so you can direct the air. If you still need solvent after blowing an area clean at least you don't need to use as much.

Mark