What generator power level is needed for a travel trailer?

[Birddogz]

Just curious to how much power is needed to run a T.V. and air conditioner in a travel trailer.

[Dave Quindt]

For most travel trailer a/c units you'll need at least 3000 watts; maybe more depending on the size of the a/c unit, the conditions and the other power draws.

Without a/c, you can get away with 2000 watts or sometimes even less.

Lots of good info here:
http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/prod ... wmuchpower

FYI,
Dave

[Greg Jennings]

From spending the night around a lot of campers with generators, I *highly* recommend the Honda.

Greg J.

[kninebirddog]

We have the honda 3000 I wouldn't go any less to run the AC optimally and the generator not having to run at a higher rpm through out the time you are running the AC the more efficient they run the less gas you will use..
You will not be able to run the AC and the Microwave at the same time with the 3000 but it will run the Ac most anything other TV computer etc etc etc

[dan v]

Yamaha builds one in the 3000 watt class, I have a Yamaha EF2400iS...starts and runs the 13.5k btu Coleman Mach 3 AC....I'm very pleased with it.

[lvrgsp]

Couple things here one is something Dave touched on, and that is the type of AC unit and the draw it is going to have? Is it a standard RV unit (newer, older, it does matter some) or is it a Window AC unit mounted into a travel trailer...(I've seen it done).....Secondly here is the type of generator, you have generators and inverter generators such as what Daves Link (I'm guessing here did not read it), Greg, and Wyndancer provided in the form of Honda and Yamaha, argueably 2 of the best units on the market if not the best IMO.
You can get a standard 5000 watt portable generator from Coleman, Generac, etc.... that weighs 150-200 pounds on a cart with wheels from anywhere around $600-$800 bucks......and it will do just fine be louder and bulkier to move but work nonetheless.....

You can take a 3000 watt Inverter Generator from Honda or Yammmerhammer, it will barely make a noise, weigh much less than a standard portable generator, have a cleaner ac power distribution which really does help with more sensitive electronics such as laptops or newer appliances, the thing with these Inverter Gens is, one the better AC sine wave for sensitive stuff but they can also be connected with another generator to double the output, such as buying a 2000 watt now and linking another 2000 watt gen to it later for 4000 watts at half the size twice the fuel efficiency and extremely quiet, now these are going to run anywhere from $1000-$1300 depending on the size and make.......IMO really good units......Oh and the linking cable to put 2 of em in parralell will cost as well some.

3rd......you can get a RV generator that runs off propane, gas....rated at 3000-5000 watt anywhere from $1800-$2500.....

You did not mention a heater, so I am going to guess you do not have one or will not use it........There are a few mods you can make to an RV Air unit if it is older to make it a more efficient and draw less current, but I reccomend taking it to a RV dealership for that.

Hope that helps cornfuse ya some more.

[Birddogz]

You need power to run heat in a trailer?

[BigShooter]

You need power to run heat in a trailer?

On furnaces only to run the fan & on newer ones the electronics, including the electronic start. Many trailers have air cond. units with a heat setting that requires elec. to operate.

[BigShooter]

If you have an older trailer it'd be a good idea to get LP leak & CO detector(s).

[dan v]

You need power to run heat in a trailer?

On furnaces only to run the fan & on newer ones the electronics, including the electronic start. Many trailers have air cond. units with a heat setting that requires elec. to operate.

The manufacturers call that the "heat strip"....some call it the "Chill Chaser"....others call it useless.

lvrgsp covers it in detail.

and good advice on the CO2 and LP detectors. The LP detectors are date coded. I suppose the CO2 and fire detectors are as well. Check the good through date, and replace if need be.

[Neil]

You can ask the question here:

http://www.trailerlifedirectory.com/forums/default.aspx

or find that answer and 1,000 others in the archives. It is great site with a lot of knowledgeable folks, I mean knowledgeable.

Before you post you need to get the watts of all the equipment you plan to run at the same time. I can get by on a 2,000 watt gen, but can only run the ac and nothing else, or most everything else and not the ac. The big culperts are the ac and the microwave.

Neil

[lvrgsp]

The other thing with the Inverter gens is a boost or a start up surge kinda thingy....(call it whatever ya want) basically it can handle a bigger surge, or start up than a conventional as some call them generator, now Yammmmerhammer also has a boost on theres that increases the load capacity quite significantly through the continous operation, not just isolated to the surge. It is somehwhat new to me and have not had time to play with it, it is supposed to be able to handle a AC and Microwave as Neil suggested at once, from what I hear its the bees knees......I'm not an RV guy so to say but gens I dig on quite a bit.....

[Nebraska]

I don't have a travel trailer but did do quite a bit of research on this subject for backup generators to keep at my home or take camping and ended up with two Honda EU2000i units along with an extra 5 gallon fuel tank.

I purchased mine at Wise Equipment Sales. They gave me a good deal and the units showed up fast too. Here's a link for what I have:

http://www.wisesales.com/honda_genset.html

Good luck!!

[BigShooter]

[quote="Wyndancer" and good advice on the CO2 and LP detectors. The LP detectors are date coded. I suppose the CO2 and fire detectors are as well. Check the good through date, and replace if need be.[/quote]

I think you mean carbon monoxide (CO) like I wrote not carbon dioxide (CO2). Carbon monoxide ties up hemoglobin molecules so they cannot transport oxygen molecules from the lungs. Carbon dioxide is what humans exhale.

[dan v]

[quote="Wyndancer" and good advice on the CO2 and LP detectors. The LP detectors are date coded. I suppose the CO2 and fire detectors are as well. Check the good through date, and replace if need be.

I think you mean carbon monoxide (CO) like I wrote not carbon dioxide (CO2). Carbon monoxide ties up hemoglobin molecules so they cannot transport oxygen molecules from the lungs. Carbon dioxide is what humans exhale. [/quote]

Nice catch Al Gore....