Am wondering how far out other GSP's range? We have a runner. He ranges a couple hundred yards out. We are really used to the closeness of the weim, and are having a hard time dealing with a dog we can't see most of the time.
Is this mostly preference?
Any advice on getting him to range in closer? We don't want to use the collar with "here", because that means come all the way in. What do others do?
Just don't want to make a mistake with the collar. Any help?
Caren
GSP Ranging
You could try to start quartering him sooner. Let him run off a line, and when you get him out to your preferred range, get his attention (whistle?) and when he looks at you step off in a different direction. This can be enforced by using a long check cord and turning the dog as you turn. This should consistently keep the dog running while at a specified range from you.
You'll need a lot of space to do this in, and I'm not entirely sure that it will work reliably, but it's a start.
You'll need a lot of space to do this in, and I'm not entirely sure that it will work reliably, but it's a start.
- Steven
Justus Kennels.com
Justus James Ayres SH CGC - Justus - Rest in Peace, buddy.
Wind River's JK Clara Belle - Belle
Wind River's JK Black Tie Affair - Tux
Justus Kennels.com
Justus James Ayres SH CGC - Justus - Rest in Peace, buddy.
Wind River's JK Clara Belle - Belle
Wind River's JK Black Tie Affair - Tux
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emae
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Rusti's Mom
When we want to be able to see Staci, the trainer puts an e-collar around her middle. If she goes way out, he will give her the slightest little nick to remind her that we are not on horses.
If she doesn't have the 2nd collar on, we never see her. He let me feel how the 2nd one was just almost like your cell phone when on silent or vibrate.
It is worth the try.
Pat
If she doesn't have the 2nd collar on, we never see her. He let me feel how the 2nd one was just almost like your cell phone when on silent or vibrate.
It is worth the try.
Pat
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dhondtm
We have the opposite problem with the Weim of course. We mostly hiked with her before starting her hunt training and we use "too far". She has become accustomed to us saying "too far" and quickly returns within range. Unfortunately, when hiking the range is different than when hunting. Now, we struggle to get her out there to find the birds. I avoid using "too far" when we are chasing birds and just keep telling her "go, go find the birds".
Again, when she spots a rabbit in the field and gives chase I break her off when she gets 100-150 yards with two blasts from a whistle. She is quick to return with her enthusiasm from the chase.
Again, when she spots a rabbit in the field and gives chase I break her off when she gets 100-150 yards with two blasts from a whistle. She is quick to return with her enthusiasm from the chase.
GPS Ranging
I like to have my GSP with in gun range, here in Nebraska nothing really sits tight unless it is 20 below with winds. If he gets out in front too far I have a beeper with a beeper on it that I can sound and he knows to stop and come back. too far infront and all he will do is run the birds up and out.
You know what you like but it seems such a waste of a pointing dog if it always is in gun range. Under those restrictions I have always thought a flushing dog was the thing to have. I understand the fact that some pheasants are going to flush wild but many good dogs learn to handle that pretty well and can keep them pinned down a little better. I will take a few wild flushes just to see the beauty of the dog work and the points that are held till you get there. Of course a lot of this has to do with the cover also. I'd keep working on the obedience part of your training and try to use the whistle to keep her in check. I think more pheasants are flushed with us yelling at the dogs than flush because of the dog.
Ezzy
Ezzy
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=144
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=207
It's not how many breaths you have taken but how many times it has been taken away!
Has anyone noticed common sense isn't very common anymore.
http://www.perfectpedigrees.com/4genview.php?id=207
It's not how many breaths you have taken but how many times it has been taken away!
Has anyone noticed common sense isn't very common anymore.
GPS Ranging
EZZY
True, I would agree with you on that. The stuff we like to hunt is CRP grass about up to our chest. Most of the time I let him go where he wishes (left right) as far as he wants just as long as he has someone in front. I don't think I have ever seen a GSP get out in front lets say over 100 yds and point pheasants ect... in Nebraska if I let three or so flush wild on my dog it maybe all we see all day.However, I will let my dog get out in front and maybe work the bird a little next time. Thanks for your info.
jk
True, I would agree with you on that. The stuff we like to hunt is CRP grass about up to our chest. Most of the time I let him go where he wishes (left right) as far as he wants just as long as he has someone in front. I don't think I have ever seen a GSP get out in front lets say over 100 yds and point pheasants ect... in Nebraska if I let three or so flush wild on my dog it maybe all we see all day.However, I will let my dog get out in front and maybe work the bird a little next time. Thanks for your info.
jk
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icefire
ourhunters,
the whole reason that i have the pointing dogs is so they can do the running not me!! with that said different situations call for different ranges. my dogs are encouraged to run big and out here running big often means 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile away. when they find a bird and go on point they know that they are not to move until i get there. now we hunt a lot of very open ground with birds occurring in coveys that are spread out quite a bit. it can take covering a lot of ground to find the birds. yes, they are sometimes out of sight but we tend to run in areas that you can see your dog that far out and more important the dog can wsee you that far out and will still handle for you. with a little over handleing, I can keep the dogs closer but close to me is a couple of hundred yards. if you are after quail in thick cover or woodland grouse this is obviously not what you want your dog doing and you need to train for that. It also makes a big difference the line that your dog comes from. i agree that if you are keeping your dog within gun range then your not using the dog for what it was meant to be used for. that is fine if that is what you like though, remember it is all about what is fun for you! some dogs do not like to be out of sight for very long and they are easier to keep in. also, if you find plenty of birds near you the dog is more likely to stay in. you can over time, with constant call backs and quartering drills get your dog to work closer, it just takes time in the field. do not be afraid to put a collar on your dog and use here a lot whenever it gets to far out for you, that will suck a dog in over time but with your weim you have already seen what to much of that will do. i would suggest buying a dog that is bred to be more suited to the hunting that you do. if i had a dog that would only go out a few hundred yards i would sell it and go get another. there are lines of very close working gsp's out there or just keep working on yours and she/he will come around. if you can usually see your dog that far out, i would say let her go! but that is just me, either way good luck and enjoy!
the whole reason that i have the pointing dogs is so they can do the running not me!! with that said different situations call for different ranges. my dogs are encouraged to run big and out here running big often means 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile away. when they find a bird and go on point they know that they are not to move until i get there. now we hunt a lot of very open ground with birds occurring in coveys that are spread out quite a bit. it can take covering a lot of ground to find the birds. yes, they are sometimes out of sight but we tend to run in areas that you can see your dog that far out and more important the dog can wsee you that far out and will still handle for you. with a little over handleing, I can keep the dogs closer but close to me is a couple of hundred yards. if you are after quail in thick cover or woodland grouse this is obviously not what you want your dog doing and you need to train for that. It also makes a big difference the line that your dog comes from. i agree that if you are keeping your dog within gun range then your not using the dog for what it was meant to be used for. that is fine if that is what you like though, remember it is all about what is fun for you! some dogs do not like to be out of sight for very long and they are easier to keep in. also, if you find plenty of birds near you the dog is more likely to stay in. you can over time, with constant call backs and quartering drills get your dog to work closer, it just takes time in the field. do not be afraid to put a collar on your dog and use here a lot whenever it gets to far out for you, that will suck a dog in over time but with your weim you have already seen what to much of that will do. i would suggest buying a dog that is bred to be more suited to the hunting that you do. if i had a dog that would only go out a few hundred yards i would sell it and go get another. there are lines of very close working gsp's out there or just keep working on yours and she/he will come around. if you can usually see your dog that far out, i would say let her go! but that is just me, either way good luck and enjoy!
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ourhunters
Thanks guys, this makes a lot of sense to me. This is just really new to us, and we're trying to get used to it. He was bred to range, and that is what he does. We just need to work on our obedience, like you said, so we don't have to worry about not coming back. The other day out hunting, we saw one bird, and our GSP found it for us. It was our commands that confused him and he flushed it. You are absolutely right. We need to let our dog work and quit freaking out that he's too far.
Icefire, would your recommend using (collar and here) and bringing him all the way in if he gets too far from us? (I guess ranging is one thing, but heading off into another field that we aren't hunting, is one thing that he did this past weekend.) The only way we got him back was the collar. Or, would you hit him with the collar and use a whoa for him to stop and wait or another wait type of command to hold him back?
Thanks again.
Caren
Icefire, would your recommend using (collar and here) and bringing him all the way in if he gets too far from us? (I guess ranging is one thing, but heading off into another field that we aren't hunting, is one thing that he did this past weekend.) The only way we got him back was the collar. Or, would you hit him with the collar and use a whoa for him to stop and wait or another wait type of command to hold him back?
Thanks again.
Caren
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icefire
i would stop running him and back up a little. you mentioned 2 completely different issues here. one, to far away from you for your liking and 2, hunting a different field then you would like.
if he is consistantly getting to far out for your tastes, when he reaches that point tell him here and make him come all the way into you. hold him in for a minute then release him back out. this should not require a collar correction very often at all at this point. if it does, back up and do some more training. BEWARE that you may end up getting a bit more then you ased for and yes, you run the risk of making him a bootlicker. given enough time and repitition though, the two of you should develope a range that works for both of you. i an make my dogs work closer, and in cover they naturally do some of that on their own but once they realize that i am going to let them go, they motor on out pretty quick.
hunting the wrong field? the only time that should happen is if you are walking towards that field. go back to the check cord and getting the dog to turn (quarter, whatever) on its name (or whistle or what ever command does it for you. i just use the name). the dog should learn to keep up with you and stay ahead of you and to key on the direction you are heading.
remember, for both the here, and the turning on the name, start on the chckcord with a choke chain, once the dog knows it transfer to the collar and then slowly, increase the range at which you are working. don't gto from the cc to 200 yards in one step/session. as far as the range goes though, if the situation allows for it, oet him go a little bit! just make sure that he is broke broke broke on those birds before the CC comes off.
pm me if you want to talk.
Justin
if he is consistantly getting to far out for your tastes, when he reaches that point tell him here and make him come all the way into you. hold him in for a minute then release him back out. this should not require a collar correction very often at all at this point. if it does, back up and do some more training. BEWARE that you may end up getting a bit more then you ased for and yes, you run the risk of making him a bootlicker. given enough time and repitition though, the two of you should develope a range that works for both of you. i an make my dogs work closer, and in cover they naturally do some of that on their own but once they realize that i am going to let them go, they motor on out pretty quick.
hunting the wrong field? the only time that should happen is if you are walking towards that field. go back to the check cord and getting the dog to turn (quarter, whatever) on its name (or whistle or what ever command does it for you. i just use the name). the dog should learn to keep up with you and stay ahead of you and to key on the direction you are heading.
remember, for both the here, and the turning on the name, start on the chckcord with a choke chain, once the dog knows it transfer to the collar and then slowly, increase the range at which you are working. don't gto from the cc to 200 yards in one step/session. as far as the range goes though, if the situation allows for it, oet him go a little bit! just make sure that he is broke broke broke on those birds before the CC comes off.
pm me if you want to talk.
Justin